If you go on any site offering tours in and around Milan (like Get Your Guide or Viator), you will encounter numerous offerings for tours taking the Bernina Express up into the Swiss Alps. I far as I could discover, none of these tours are advertised as accessible tours. In fact, most of them specifically say “not suitable for wheelchair users.” So, it might not be entirely fair to review the tour for its accessibility, but like me, there might be some with varying levels of ability who might be interested in something like this wondering if it is something they can manage, so I think providing the information might be helpful.
As we were planning our trip to Italy and decided to spend time in Northern Italy, my daughter settled on seeing the Alps as one of the primary activities she wanted to do. While I have spent time in the Alps and back in my more mobile days hiked all around the Lauterbrunnen Valley and was lulled to sleep while camping under the roar of the majestic Staubbach Falls, my daughter had never seen the Alps and was excited for the opportunity. So, despite these tours not being listed as wheelchair accessible, since they were advertised as mostly bus and train rides, I decided to attempt it as an ambulatory wheelchair user using just my cane for the day.
I ended up booking the “Bernina Train Tour, Swiss Alps, and St. Moritz From Milan” tour through Tao Travel. While the conglomerate sites are great for discovering tours (and are sometimes the only place to book some of them), I try to support the smaller businesses directly. That way the business keeps all the money and often passes some of that discount onto you the consumer. I also went with the offering by Tao Travel because their meeting point in Milan was by Milan Central Station which I had chosen as my base for my stay in Milan.
Most of these tours are advertised as 11-12 hour, full day tours out of Milan. They include pick-up from a central location in Milan (usually near a train station or popular square) in an air conditioned bus. The bus takes one up north to a town like Tirano, usually by a scenic route along Lake Como, with a bathroom/coffee stop along the way. One is given a short amount of time in Tirano (just enough for a gelato break) before catching the Bernina Express train to go over the Alps into Switzerland to the town of St. Moritz. After some free time the bus picks you back up and returns you to Milan.
Our tour started early in the morning with a 7:15AM arrival time outside the Excelsior Hotel Gallia right by the Milan Central Train station. We had received confirmation of the time and location the day before through WhatsApp (I highly recommend installing and setting up WhatsApp before your trip because it will be the main communication platform for with tours anywhere outside of the US). It was just a short distance from my hotel, so I made the walk using just my cane. That area is a pick-up location for all sorts of tours, so it really helps to know which tour company is running your particular tour (Get Your Guide and Viator are not tour companies, they are simply conglomerates where tour companies can list their tours). So knowing who is running your tour helps make the check-in process go smoothly. And please do be sure to check in with your guide – a couple of people just got straight onto our bus without checking in which ended up delaying our departure because the guide was waiting for them to arrive.
The bus itself had three very steep steps to get into the bus. There were multiple safety bars that I used to help pull myself up onto the bus. It was somewhat difficult with my weak leg, but doable for me. It would be very difficult or impossible for someone with less mobility. There was under storage in the bus that a couple of families put strollers into, so perhaps a mobility device could have fit, but one would still need to navigate the bus steps.
The bus was moderately comfortable. There was not much leg room for each seat and I had difficulty fitting my extra long legs into the allotted area. The first part of the drive was pretty chill as we were all tired (leaving that early meant missing the breakfast at my hotel). We stopped for a rest break after about an hour. The café required about 7 steps to get into, there might have been a ramp by the back patio but I didn’t see one easily apparent. On one side of the café there was a small convenience store and bathrooms at the back of the building. On the other side was a coffee bar and pastry shop. To get food or drink, you had to go to the check out first, tell them what you want, then take your receipt to the counter to get your drink and food. It was all a bit chaotic and hard to navigate with my cane with that many people about, and I required my daughter’s help to carry my drink and pastry from the counter to a table because I can’t walk with my cane and carry anything at the same time.
Once we were back on the bus we drove up towards and alongside Lake Como. Our tour guide Alejandro gave us a fantastic overview of the history of the area and the agricultural focus of the fields, orchards, and vineyards we were driving past. Be ready to take pictures – the views are spectacular. We then arrived in Tirano and the bus let us off on some side street. We then walked as a group to the center of town. Unfortunately, the walk included going down a couple of flights of stairs to an underground walkway and then back up stairs to where the train station is. This walk and the stairs definitely pushed my mobility limits. While most of the group got to wander around the town and grab a gelato while we waited for the train, I had to use that time to rest. There might be other ways to approach the train station but be aware that at least this tour involved a significant amount of stairs.
Our tour included second-class tickets on the iconic red Bernina Express. We had an entire train car for our group. We didn’t get the train with the panoramic windows, but we were able to open the windows, which is an absolute must for taking pictures during the ride. There were a couple of steps up to get on the train, but they weren’t too difficult for me. The seats were sadly very uncomfortable, which did not help with my body already being pushed near its limits, but I took some painkillers, and we were on our way.
There is a reason this is an immensely popular tour – the entire ride was absolutely stunning. Mountains, lakes, waterfalls, glaciers, and quaint villages – all just one moment of beauty after another. Not to mention the spectacle of the engineering of the route itself – slowly climbing higher and higher into the mountains, clinging to the edges of cliffs, going through tunnels to emerge into another spectacular valley – there is a good reason this rail line is a UNESCO World Heritage site (recognized in 2008 due to its exceptional engineering and harmonious integration with the natural environment). Pictures hardly do it justice.
And yes, it is a bit unnerving at times, especially if you have a fear of heights, but the views are worth it. Be aware as you climb up into the snow-covered mountains past icy lakes it will get cold. Most of the windows in the train will be down so people can see and take clear pictures, and the temperature will drop as you reach higher altitudes. We traveled at the very end of May and got quite cold on the journey. Thankfully we had packed sweaters, hats, and gloves which helped, but be sure to come prepared.
We arrived at the train station in St. Moritz and were given free time to explore the town. The tour guide led the group into town to show everyone some recommended restaurants. I initially started to follow, but quickly realized that I was not up for the strenuous walk. The train station in down by the lake, but given that it is the Alps, the town climbs up the mountainside along the lake. From the train station, there is a gently sloping ramp that takes you up to the car park. After crossing the car park you enter a building where there are long steep escalators to take you up to street level. I did see an elevator and restrooms, but the restrooms at least were shut down when we were there. At the top of a series of three escalators you enter the quaint streets of St. Moritz.
Sadly, most of the shops were still closed that early in the season (late May), so there was little to see at that level. The group then began walking higher into the city which I knew I was not capable of at that point. So, my daughter and I made our way back down to the train station area along the lake. There is a cute café there where we were able to get flatbread, pastries, and drinks. I was quite happy to get a nice hot mug of Glühwein to sip on the outside deck overlooking the Alpine lake. The air was still a bit chilly that high in the mountains, but at least when we were there it was a brilliantly sunny day with bright blue skies. All in all, it was a very pleasant way to spend the afternoon. We also discovered that there were restrooms and a convenience store (with a large selection of specialty chocolate snacks) inside the train station.
We then waited outside the train station to reconvene with our group. There are some benches there, but be aware the seating is very limited, so you might be left standing for longer than you like. We then walked through the train station down a few ramps to the bus pick-up area. We then reboarded the bus and started the long journey back to Milan. Be aware that you are high in the mountains at that point, and to return to lower elevations you will drive through some very tight and somewhat unnerving switchback roads. If you are prone to motion sickness this might present a problem, but it is a testament to the great skill of the bus driver that he was able to navigate those tight turns in a huge bus with ease.
The drive back was pleasant, and we were returned to the same location where we were picked up near Central Train Station in Milan. I was tired and hurt all over from riding in bouncy/jolting uncomfortable seats for a good part of the day. But I was glad I took the chance and tried the tour – the opportunity to see those vistas was worth it.
Is the tour accessible? That depends. For full time wheelchair users – no. The tours are not set up or equipped to be accessible for wheelchairs. As an ambulatory wheelchair user, the tour pushed my limits but was doable. I had my cane with me which was needed and maybe with help could have managed to bring a walker/rollator if I had it with me on the trip. If you have limited mobility and don’t mind possibly having to sit out on some minor aspects of the day, this is a doable tour and a breathtaking experience.
